Omg omg
WOW!
I'm the only person walking on the streets and I'm also the only person not paying attention to crosswalk signs. This rocks.
There was a 50 year old-ish Egyptian man at the counter in front:
"Is this also the business class lounge?"
"Yes it is. How may I help you?" He had a strong Egyptian accent.
"Ok great." I handed him my boarding pass to gain entrance.
"Sorry sir. I can't take that. You need one of these." He showed me a voucher that I was supposed to get from BA but they had forgotten to give me. I was surprised that the business class ticket was not enough to get in.
But he added with:
"I can't tell from the boarding pass that it is business class, and therefore I can't help you. You will need to go back down to the check-in area to ask them for the voucher." I checked the boarding pass myself. There wasn't any obvious indication that it was business. He was right as far as untrained eyes could tell, though I found it strange that every BA employee could always tell that it was.
I didn't want to go all the way back out to the front. I only had 30 minutes until my flight would start boarding and I didn't want to go back out security or immigration and have to come back through.
BA had messed up or this man was screwing with me looking for a bribe, so I asked him:
"Can I get your name? I am going to complain to BA that their process in this airport is broken or that their employees messed up."
"Sure." I pulled out my camera because I noticed his name badge was completely in Arabic. I was going to take a picture because I didn't trust him to actually give me his real name.
As soon as I turned the camera on and was fiddling with the controls to turn on macro mode, he realized what I was going to do and hid his badge from me.
"You can't take a picture of my badge." He had an uncomfortable smile on his face, which I was quietly enjoying.
"Why not? I don't know Arabic so I'm going to have to do this. I don't know how to write your name myself." I was really starting to enjoy myself. I was probably already starting to smile outwardly.
"Because you just can't. It's BA's fault downstairs that they didn't give you the voucher, so there's no reason for you to take my name."
"Well, I don't know for sure whether it's BA's fault, so I have to gather the necessary facts and find someone who will do something about the problem here. I need your name so that when they ask me who told you that you weren't allowed into the lounge, I can tell them. That way there is some way to trace the process problem." This made him get defensive.
"Look sir, this lounge is not owned by BA. It is property of Cairo airport. We get paid by BA for every voucher we collect from them. If I don't have a voucher from you, we won't get paid. That's what it is."
"How do I know that it's not BA's lounge?"
"Come here sir. I will show you." He stepped out of the counter stall and motioned for me to follow. I picked up my backpack and my documents and started to follow.
"Sir, you may leave your bag there. It will be fine." My backpack has my most important stuff in it. I wasn't going to let this man talk me into leaving it on the ground in a public area. I hadn't done that in 7 months, I wasn't going to start now.
"No I'll bring it thanks. I don't trust anybody."
He smiled uncomfortably and nodded in acknowledgement. He walked me back to the lounge door. He pointed to a large seal that was fixed into the wood of the wall.
"Do you see the sign? It says Cairo Airport Lounge. There is no BA. This lounge is run by the airport. We are not BA. I need someone from BA to tell me that you need access to this area." I nodded because I agreed to what was written. We walked back to his counter with him leading me.
"You must go back down to check-in and ask for the voucher. It only takes 5 minutes. Please go get it. I need the voucher." From what I've experienced in the last 3 weeks, nothing in Egypt takes 5 minutes when it comes to beaurocracy and security together. There was no way I was going to let him talk me into stepping outside just to get some croissants with 30 minutes left until boarding. I was not going to go outside, but I needed some substance with which to complain with to BA, so I planned to take pictures of everything in the scene, including his badge.
"I would still like to take your picture so that I can tell BA my story. I don't want them to think I'm lying."
"You don't need my name. Everyone who works at this desk will tell you the same thing. You can complain to BA anyway. They will not think you are lying. There is no reason you need my name."
Of course this sparked my curiosity. I particularly enjoy making people nervous, especially when I feel that they are lying or hiding something.
"Ok so if you didn't do anything wrong and BA is at fault, then I guess there's no reason why you should have a problem giving me your badge. The fact that you won't let me take your picture has convinced me that I should definitely take your name with me."
At which point I think he had realized he wasn't going to win this argument with words, so he asked, "Would you like me to call a BA representative up here?" I was going to say yes but then decided I didn't want to wait in case he was bluffing to stall. I told him I would go get a BA representative at my gate myself. I happened to have noticed earlier that my gate was only 100m away from this desk.
I told him I'd be back shortly. I walked to gate 6 and found the nearest BA employee. I told him that it seemed that I had mistakenly not been given a voucher for the business class lounge. He looked at my boarding pass as I handed it to him, then nodded and said "follow me please."
He led me back to the lounge and just walked me past the guy that I had been dealing with for the last 10 minutes. He barely acknowledged the guy's presence. I smiled a little and said, "thank you" to the man at the counter to show that there were no hard feelings. The BA employee took me into the *first* class lounge, said that he was sorry for the mistake, wished me a good flight, and told the ladies at the front desk something in arabic, then jotted something on a small card, probably authorizing my entry somehow.
I walked in and had some breakfast. The lounge was nothing special. It was actually pretty drab, but nothing could drown the satisfaction that I felt having played the game with the man outside correctly.
In recollection, it sure seems a bit strange that the man outside is collecting these "vouchers" yet there are 2 women inside the lounge checking to see who's coming in again. The BA rep proved that to me. I think there's a good chance the man was just looking for a bribe and his entire job is just collecting these pieces of paper literally just to collect these pieces of paper.
There have to have been incidents in the past where someone else didn't have a voucher in the history of Cairo airport and its lounge. If all it took was a short call to the BA desk to clear it up then he should have just done that from the start rather than ask me to exit immigration and security and then come back in with some paper voucher that was going to get me orange juice and a lazyboy. That's not what I call customer service. He wasn't doing anything else that I noticed anyway while sitting there.
I know it was cruel for me to rub it in with the "thank you" but I couldn't help it. He was an ass to me, either intellectually or emotionally or both. Sometimes you have to use some simple logic and assertiveness to get past the sheep that are blocking progress, and this time it happened to work in my favor.
The man had the entire passenger list for the plane this morning. He scanned the list for my name. I had a feeling it wouldn't be on there because I changed my flight last night to move them 1 day forward (today instead of tomorrow). As predicted, he told me I wasn't on the list and called another man over who had a badge but didn't dress like a normal security officer.
The first man gave the second man my passport. The second man asked me to follow him to the check-in desk. He asked a third man standing behind the British Airways counter something after handing him my passport. The third man said something back that sounded positive after checking the computer and then gave the second man my passport back. I thought everything was clear and I would be allowed to check in.
But the second man didn't give me my passport. He then asked me to follow him back to the first man. The first man then asked the second man to take me to the office. I didn't know what he meant but the second man told me to follow him. He kept repeating "everything ok" to me for some reason.
He must have thought I was worried. After 7 months of traveling I'm used to this crap. I was calmer than a lion that had just finished chowing on a antelope.
I followed the second man back outside security. I could tell he was leading me to the British Airways office. I took out my phone and opened up aa.com on my browser to get my flight itinerary information in case they would need to see it. During the walk over the man kept repeating something under his breath while trying to get my attention. I figured out after a couple of repeats that he was saying "tip the man ok? Tip the man ok?"
I gave him the blank-faced puzzled look I like to give with my eyes and forehead to get out of situations, to either give the impression that I don't inderstand english or I don't understand what they mean anyway because I'm too innocent.
We step into the BA office. There's only a woman working the counter. So apparently he doesn't mean to tip her. I assumed at that point that he meant to tip the security guard to get by. Maybe they do a 2 man runaround when this kind of stuff happens to get bribes from frightened foreigners and then they split it between them.
The lady asked me how she could help. I told her I wasn't on the list at the security gate so they wouldn't let me in. She took some time to look me up and then printed out a paper for me to show the security man. During this wait I noticed that the man that escorted me had left the office (are you surprised? I wasn't).
I thanked her for the printout and then went back to the security area. I put my bags in the conveyor again and then walked through the machine. I showed the same man my passport and the printout to confirm what he wanted to see. He gave it back to me with a smile on his face that was just a little too creepy to seem genuine. I said "thank you" with a little creepy grin to match his to send him the message of "I didn't fall for your stupid bullshit hah", took my passport and walked toward the business class counter for BA to check-in.
Conclusion: What I think happened is the 2 guys were playing a little game based on formalities. I certainly wasn't on the original printout list so taking me to the BA counter was required. The BA check-in guy had probably told the second man that I was indeed a confirmed passenger in the computer, but since I didn't understand the conversation, the second man pulled me back to security and then to the BA office like something was wrong just to see if they can get me to donate some money to the security guard sheesha fund, except they didn't realize I was too calm to fall for that one.
Lesson learned for Egyptian airport security: Next time try scamming someone who has not been carrying a backpack for 7 months wearing camping clothes and has been staying at $7 a night hostels. You might get a better payoff out of it.
Free tip for Egypt: maybe you wouldn't need 6 serial security checkpoints at the airport if you fixed this corruption problem. You should see how many guards asked me if I would tip them if they let me take a picture with him and his semi-automatic gun at the tourist attractions.
If you want to pay for a foreigner meal, you need around 50 LE (egyptian pounds). If you get out of the tourist area to eat, you only need about 5 LE.
So what happens is, you go to the ATM to get 500 LE out to last you a few days including a bed (about $100), but the ATM only gives you 100 LE and 200 LE notes. So if you're only staying and eating expensive foreigner stuff it works out ok, but if you can find cheap food like me, or want to take a taxi a short distance, or buy a water from the market, you'll find that almost nobody has the small bills necessary to give you change for your 100 LE note and especially your 200 LE note.
The store will want to keep the small change to pay other customers with smaller bills. For some reason, these establishments don't want to go to the bank and get a lot of small bills to help their business along. Maybe they're trying to use it to get foreigners to overpay? Or maybe the Egyptian banks don't like to give out small bills? I'm not sure of the reason. There's also no 7 eleven store chain here in this country that will cash out any size of bill like in Thailand.
So if you're not paying a large amount and you happen to have exact change, it's a convenient way to lower the price to what you're looking for when you're bargaining, because you take the hassle out of the transaction and that fact alone entices the locals to accept. For them it means less talking and less english required to complete the transaction.
This morning I needed to catch a cab from downtown Cairo to the airport. It's supposed to cost 60 to 70. Well that's what my hostel staff told me. But from experience, I know that taxis don't like to give back change. When most people (foreigners) pay a 70 LE bill, they will use one of their 100 LE notes, which means the driver needs to give 3 10 LE notes back in change. So I pulled out 4 10 LE notes and a 5 LE and showed them to a taxi driver after I pulled him over and said "45 pounds to airport" and he mulled it over for a bit, looked at my exact change and said "ok".
My little strategy worked this morning. To do this easily in Egypt, you need to use the 100 LE bills as much as possible and amass 10 LE bills as much as possible by getting change back from those 100s wherever you can. At one point 2 days ago I was carrying about 20 10 LE notes and 10 1 LE coins in my pocket. It was almost like I was a walking change machine according to Egyptian standards.
I didn't get to use this method successfully too many times in Egypt because I thought of it late in the game, but I will try to reuse it when I get to South America if given the opportunity.
Is it because they hate their jobs? Is it because they hate their cars? Is it because being in the seated position for 10 hours a day reduces seratonin in their body? Is it because it releases a toxin that puts them in a foul mood? Is it because dishonest people become taxi drivers? Is it because convicts are asked to pick up the taxi profession when the jails get too full? Is it because they are forced to work as drivers to pay off the ransom for their children who have been kidnapped by terrorists? Is it because other people treat them like shit so they need revenge? Is it because haggling 30 times a day wears them out and they get tired of being friendly? Is it because the fumes in the car make them angry (carbon monoxide poisoning)? Is it because they truly enjoy taking advantage of tourists? It may be one of these reasons I guess.
It's not that they want to just take your money either. It's not simple economics. The ones here use fear and intimidation and outright lying as part of their business tactics.
I've been told several times from different travelers that they've run across drivers that do 1 of 3 things:
1. Agree to take you around all day for a set price, but then get to about 3pm and then want more money to take you back and/or keep going
2. Agree to take you around for a set price, and then when it comes time to pay they blatantly lie about how much you agreed to and you have to argue with them about what you agreed to
3. Agree to take you to your destination, and then drop you off at a spot 3 miles away from where you wanted to be once you realize it.
4. (This one just happened to me) They ask you to hop into the cab, they start driving to your destination and then they ask for a ridiculous amount of money by the time you get there. You argue about it and threaten to get out, and by that time you're halfway to your destination so he wants you to pay or doesn't want to drop you off early. Then at the destination you're still arguing about what you're going to pay. I basically paid him what I thought was fair and not what he asked and started walking away. He left with it anyway. So basically it was more than enough (like I suspected), he just wanted to intimidate me into paying more because I bet other tourists do.
It seems to happen more in areas that are full of richer tourists. I have been in Sharm El-Sheikh for the last 24 hours which is a popular vacation spot for middle aged wealthy people who live in Europe and Russia. I came here to see this area for a day before returning to Cairo.
It's not just Egypt, I met uncool drivers in China and Thailand too. It does certainly seem to happen more in less civilized countries.
I can't imagine how shitty it would be trying to get through this type of stuff as a solo female traveler. It's gotta be tough.
It had the "wow" factor because it was my first time in a hot air balloon, but I didn't finish the experience with tingles on my skin.
The view of the town of Luxor and the Valley of the Queens and the canyons behind it were great. I got some great pictures on my camera. Watching the men set up the balloon and take it down was very cool. And figuring out how the balloon is controlled was very educational.
The men used big fans with generators on them to first fill the balloons with air and then when it gets almost 3/4s full they tip it over and pump in the gas.
Everything is controlled by a single pilot in the center of the balloon basket. There are switches that pump out some kind of gas and then the massive torch in the center lights it up into the balloon, which is how it gets its lift. Then he uses 2 ropes that are attached to different parts of the inside of the balloon to rotate in opposite directions. He can't really control where it goes, it seems like he could only control how fast he went in the direction the wind was blowing to.
There are 2 more lines that are connected to a circular piece of fabric that is covering the top center roof of the balloon. Once the ride is over, they pull on these 2 ropes and it pulls the fabric circle into the center and creates a huge vent at the top. The lifting gas completely escapes and the balloon comes down. Then they fold it up for the next ride.
The ride was very calm with no wind. We were floating during sunrise and I think that was one way to make sure the wind was reduced.
Maybe if they had let me bungy off of it I would have liked it more. I remember myself sort of wishing that they would. I also wanted to hang off the edge at some point to take pictures too, but I knew that would get me in trouble.
At one point I half jokingly said out loud that the ride was "boring" and one of the other passengers asked me if I was getting an adrenaline rush. The answer was no, I had 0 adrenaline rush except for when I thought we might have a rough landing (I got excited at the thought) or right at the beginning when we took off and I could see the ground falling away from us.
I guess that was my problem. Everyone else was excited because we were high up off the ground. I felt perfectly safe, because I was standing rather than falling down with a cord strapped to my legs. Hehe
The Egyptian kids that came out of wherever they came from to beg for money after we landed was probably the most captivating part of the trip. They came walking and on their donkeys. I didn't see any for most of the ride and then suddenly there were 10 around us, like some zombie horror flick, including little girls in what looked like pajamas nighties (dresses). And the faces they make to look as pathetic as possible so that maybe we'll feel guilty enough to throw something.
Somebody on the bus gave them an uneaten breakfast box and these kids were ripping it apart trying to get a piece of it. It was surprising how violent that scene was because they look energyless when they're begging. I was just secretly wishing that a cell phone rang and it was one of the kids'. That would have been excellently funny, just like what happened at the Great Wall.
Then as I was walking down the terminal area after stepping foot on Egyptian soil, I started seeing the first people waiting for arrivers. Apparently in Cairo they let the guides wait all the way until the gate where you get off. So by the time I got to the baggage claim area, I had already passed about 200 people.
Immigration was literally 5 windowed booths next to eachother. There was no subdivision for Egyptians and foreigners. Before the booths were little currency exchange shops selling Egyptian visas. This was where I had to pay $15 usd to buy a visa and enter the country with it.
The problem was that they literally wanted usd, euros, egyptian pounds, or british pounds. They wouldn't accept other cash. The ATMs were all on the other side of immigration. I had only a single $20 bill that I had kept in my security pouch for 6 months and so it was a little ragged. When I tried to use it, they said they wouldn't take it because it was slightly torn (very minor, you wouldn't think twice in the us).
I was surprised by that. But I had nothing else to pay with. I couldn't get any money from the ATMs because they were on the other side. I couldn't get to the other side without a visa. I couldn't get a visa because I didn't have the cash. So I walked to a couple foreigners asking them if they'd be willing to switch $20 bills with me, they said no.
I was basically stuck between the immigration booths and my airplane with nowhere to go. I started wondering if I should just call american airlines and just leave the country on the next plane, but then I remembered I couldn't do that, because for some reason, in Cairo the baggage claim is *after* immigration. So my bag was out there on a carousel floating around and I couldn't even get to it!
I asked some guards who were sitting there chatting. They said to try asking again. I asked the exchange offices if they would take Chinese yuan, Hong Kong dollars, Korean won, or Macau mop, because I had some of those left over in my pouch. They all said no. They said they would take Japanese yen but I had none!
I asked a couple more groups of tourists after apologizing to them. I felt like I was supposed to be scamming people because it was such a weird request. Finally a nice british man who happened to have American 20s traded me out for mine and I was able to get my visa. Whew!
I entered through immigration and I was immediately approached by some guy offering to help me get to my hotel. I smelled a scam coming on so I kept avoiding him. He had a badge and sounded official but after what already happened I felt like everything was superficial. The cheapness of the visa, the fact that they only take certain currencies, shows me that this country is poor, and in places like that you can't trust people who approach you in tourist areas.
I found my bag while he was still trying to talk to me. I told him no and walked outside. That guy wanted $19 for a taxi ride. I was approached by another guy who kept trying to convince me that $14 to downtown was a fair price for a taxi. I didn't believe him so I kept rejecting his offer and gave him a lot of shit about not wanting to be scammed. He told me he wasn't scamming me numerous times but I told him just by the mere fact that he's standing there taking all this crap from me shows that the price he's asking from me is worth it to him, and that's why I know $14 is a lot.
I was searching on the internet at that time (using my phone) to figure out what I should really pay, and I saw a couple webpages from 2003 talking about $9. He told me that that price was long time ago and outdated. I laughed. I told him I'd pay $10 and he said no and that $4 more was not that much and that I should pay it. So I told him if $4 is so little to him then he should not accept it and give me a discount. I just gave him crap for about 15 more minutes until he agreed that he would walk in with me to the hostel and let me ask the hostel if $14 was a good price, and if it was, then I could pay him that for the ride.
At that offer, I decided that I felt better about taking his offer, so I let him drive me to my hostel and led me to the front door. This turned out really good, because the hostel was difficult to find. He asked around in arabic to figure out the exact location. After I got in, the hostel manager told me that $14 was a fair price so I paid the driver and he left.
I was pretty happy that I made it into my hostel safely without getting ripped off too bad, especially at 2am when I didn't have many choices. The streets are chaotic right now because of a religious holiday and I'm in one of the busiest areas of town. My dorm bed costs $8 a night. I slept ok. The sheets on the bed were dirty when I was shown my room, so I had them switch it out for me and he was nice enough to do it. Some bread, cheese and butter were included in the price this morning.
I'm going to visit the Egyptian museum today. It's a short walk from here. The hostel manager tells me this morning that the typical taxi from the airport is between $13 and $15 so I did just fine with my bargaining.
Learning from yesterday's experience, I better get some actual us dollars on me at a bank just in case. I probably will also need them in south america too.
I've been reading a lonelyplanet book on egypt this morning and it says to carry all your valuables with you at all times, so I'll have to use my security pouch it seems.